Nobody in Lhagang would guide us over the mountains to Dartsedo; everyone said the trails were impassable, and there was no map of the area at all. An old woman in the village told us we would reach the hot springs at half past five. She had never been there. Then she added, almost to herself: “Today one mountain, tomorrow one mountain.”
We were sure there was only one pass. We reached the springs at 17:27. After that, we did not dare to say the words “second mountain” out loud. She was right about that too.
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