Two Tibetan monks in maroon robes sitting by a cast-iron stove in a small roadside eatery in 2004, one smiling and taking a photo with a flip phone, with a kettle and a bowl of eggs on the stove.

A Smile at the Bus Station

Chengdu, 2004

Seven in the morning, a bus station called the Tea Courtyard. We were hiding gas canisters in our clothes, because gas was not allowed through the scanner. In the waiting room sat Tibetan monks, the first people from the world we were about to enter. One of them, bald and pink-cheeked in a red robe, met my eyes and smiled. A clean smile. For a moment it felt as if we had talked about a great many things: two specks of dust from different worlds, meeting in eternity.


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