Oleg Gritskevich and his friend Kirill standing on either side of a smiling Tibetan man in a brown chuba robe and fur hat, in front of a monastery building with red, yellow and green painted lattice windows, in 2004.

The Tulku

Garthar Chöde, 2004

In the morning we were told the local tulku Jume Nandzya was waiting for us. He was sixty-four; he had been found at six, tested until thirteen, and had lived in the monastery ever since. He answered my questions and said that I myself do not know who I am, where I come from, what my past lives were or my purpose in this one, and that is why so much in this life will seem inexplicable to me. The people I meet are arranged so that I cannot fail to meet them, and so that, meeting them for the first time, I would not be lost and would behave as if we had always known each other. He gave each of us a sweet and put a white khata around our necks.


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